As a part of the bike initiative in Telemark I went with Caroline, director of tourism in Telemark, and Mona, counsellor of tourism in Telemark County, on a bike ride that has been awarded as one of the most beautiful bike rides in Norway.
Anxious and full of expectations we met at the center of Rjukan. Its early Monday morning, almost no wind and already more than 20 degrees. We leave the car and walks determinded against the shop Intersport where Caroline and Mona are renting bikes for the occation. Gaustatoppen raises high above us. Only a few snowfilled areas are left at this time.
At Intersport we meet up with Rune, who helps us adjust the bikes. We test and adjust a bit before we grab a couple of bikinis and a bottle of mosquito spray. This will definitely be the day for a bath?
«The lingonberry» og «the blueberry»
Fully equipped and with an impeccable mood we ride approximately one kilometer to the west in the direction of Krossobanen, the Nordic oldest and most original two-roped cableway that still is in regular traffic. Krossobanen was given to the inhabitants of Rjukan by Norsk Hydro, so that they could come up in the sun during winter.
I suggest biking to the top, but is quikly overruled by the others. It’s the “Blueberry” that get the honor of lifting us up to 886 moh.
Grand view
In about 4-5 minutes the “Blueberry” has transported us to the upper station, Gvepseborg. From the view plateau at the top of the station, we enjoy the grand view in to the Gaustdalen. To the east we see all of Vestfjordalen, Vemork and the areas for the heavy water sabotage. To the west we see Skarfoss towards Møsvatn and straight ahead the majestic Gaustatoppen. From Gvepseborg we set course towards Kalhovd. 30 kilometers through exceptional mountain scenery, past idyllic fishing waters,
Tough climb at first
From Krossobanen the two first kilometers towards Kalhovd gives you the toughest challenge. It’s a 200meter climb until you reach the tree line. The plateau of Hardangervidda reveals itself, bading in sun, and in front of us Gaustatoppen is raising above us, not undeservingly called Norway’s most beautiful mountain. Caroline takes the lead, and already in the first hill she qualifies to what we can call the fittest director of tourism in Norway, if not - at least in Telemark. The laughter comes easy and the atmosphere is really good. So good that before we know it we are already past the toughest climb. Ahead the path is hilly, has updated markings and are well kept.
Idyllic mountain lakes and time for a bath. Oh, happiness!
Idyllic clear blue mountain lakes lies like pearls on a string, and after over 10 kilometers in 20 degress the temptaition takes the better of us. We park the bikes at the side of the road, find a place to sit before we kick of the warm shoes and jumps into the water. Oh, happiness! The heat record in may has led to higher temperatures in the water than normal. We enjoy a homemade lunch while we dry out in the sun, and the trout jumps in the water.
After lunch we roll away, direction kalhovd. Sun and plateau is all we can see. The public holliday is still a couple of weeks away, still we are far from alone in the mountains. A couple, a dog, father and daughter, families with children. Tough little ones are eagerly biking away along the roads.
Entry gate to the plateau
With only 5 kilometers left the feeling of happiness is growing, if possible, even more. From her we also can expect the easiest part of the way. From mostly hilly terrain, we now meet relatively flat and easy terrain until we enter Kalhovd. Just around the corner now. The beautiful kalhovdfjorden strikes us. At the left-hand side, idyllicly placed, we can just about see Kalhovd tourist cabin.
An amazing nature experience on two wheels in Norways largest national park is behind us. At Kalhovd Kjersti gives us a warm welcome. We sit down on the terrace and enjoy the view, while we let all the impressions sink in. At 19.00 we will be served real Telemark-food.